Even if retirement feels far away, a Registered Retirement Savings Plan (RRSP) can save you thousands in taxes today while preparing for the future.
Here’s something most people don’t realize until tax season hits: contributing to an RRSP doesn’t just help future you—it puts money back in your pocket right now. That $5,000 you contribute could reduce your tax bill by $1,500 or more, depending on your income. That’s not retirement money you’ll see in 40 years—that’s cash you get back in your next refund.
But RRSPs can be confusing, especially when everyone also tells you to open a TFSA. If you’re a newcomer to Canada or just starting your career, the tax terminology alone can feel overwhelming. This guide breaks down exactly how RRSPs work, when they make sense for you, and how to avoid the mistakes that cost Canadians thousands every year.
A Registered Retirement Savings Plan is a government-registered account designed to help Canadians save for retirement while getting tax breaks along the way. Think of it as a deal with the CRA: they let you skip paying taxes on the money you contribute now, it grows tax-free inside the account, and you pay tax on it later when you withdraw during retirement (when you’re presumably in a lower tax bracket).
Here’s how it works in practice: Let’s say you earn $60,000 and contribute $5,000 to your RRSP. When you file your taxes, your taxable income drops to $55,000. Depending on your province, that could mean $1,500+ back in your pocket. That contribution didn’t cost you $5,000—it cost you more like $3,500 after the tax refund.
The real magic happens inside the account. Just like a TFSA, you can hold various investments in your RRSP—stocks, bonds, ETFs, mutual funds, GICs, even high-interest savings. All the growth, dividends, and interest accumulate without any tax consequences until you eventually withdraw the money.
RRSPs tend to be more beneficial when:
You might want to prioritize a TFSA first if:
| Feature | TFSA | RRSP |
|---|---|---|
| Tax on Contributions | Already taxed (no deduction) | Deductible from income (immediate tax savings) |
| Tax on Withdrawals | Tax-free | Taxed as income |
| Contribution Room | $6,500 annually (2025) | 18% of previous year's income, up to $31,560 |
| Withdrawal Flexibility | Anytime, no penalty | Early withdrawals taxed + withholding tax |
| Contribution Room After Withdrawal | Returns next year | Lost forever (except HBP/LLP) |
| Impact on Government Benefits | None | Withdrawals can reduce OAS, GIS |
| Ideal For | Flexible savings/investing, all goals | Retirement & tax planning for higher earners |
Let’s compare two identical scenarios:
Scenario A - TFSA:
Scenario B - RRSP:
Wait—that sounds worse, right? Here’s the key: you also got that $3,000 tax refund upfront. If you invested that refund too, you’d actually come out ahead. Plus, most people are in lower tax brackets during retirement, making the math even better.
Many Canadians use a combination of both, depending on their goals. RRSP for retirement and tax savings, TFSA for everything else.
Understanding contribution limits is critical. Unlike TFSAs which have a fixed annual limit, your RRSP room depends on your income.
18% of your previous year's earned income, up to a maximum of $31,560 (2025)
Unused contribution room carries forward indefinitely—you never lose it
Here’s a real example: You earned $55,000 in 2024. Your 2025 RRSP contribution room would be 18% of $55,000 = $9,900, plus any unused room from previous years.
If you started your first job in 2024 and earned $45,000, you’d have $8,100 in RRSP room for 2025 (18% of $45,000). But if you don’t contribute anything in 2025, that $8,100 carries forward. In 2026, if you earned $50,000 in 2025, you’d have $8,100 + $9,000 = $17,100 available.
Important deadline: You can contribute to your RRSP for the previous tax year up until March 1st. So contributions made between January 1 and March 1, 2026 can count toward your 2025 taxes if you choose.
Check your room: Don’t guess your contribution limit. Log into your CRA My Account to see your exact available room. Your Notice of Assessment also shows this amount.
What doesn’t reduce your room:
Contributions reduce your taxable income today. Get a refund this year, not in 30 years.
Investments grow tax-free until withdrawal. No capital gains tax on trades inside your RRSP.
Builds long-term wealth systematically. Forces you to save by making early withdrawals costly.
Income splitting with a spousal RRSP: If you earn significantly more than your spouse, you can contribute to a spousal RRSP in their name. You get the tax deduction at your higher rate, but they withdraw it later at their lower rate. This is one of the best legal tax strategies available.
Protection from creditors: In most provinces, RRSPs are protected from creditors if you declare bankruptcy (except for contributions made in the 12 months before bankruptcy). This doesn’t apply to TFSAs.
Home Buyers’ Plan (HBP): First-time homebuyers can withdraw up to $35,000 from their RRSP for a down payment, tax-free. You have 15 years to pay it back. This is basically an interest-free loan from yourself.
Lifelong Learning Plan (LLP): Withdraw up to $10,000 per year (max $20,000 total) to fund full-time education for you or your spouse. Again, you repay it over 10 years.
Even seasoned Canadians mess these up. Here’s what to watch for:
If you earn $35,000, your RRSP deduction saves you maybe 20% in taxes. But if you withdraw that money in retirement when you’re still at 20%, you gained nothing. The RRSP only works when you contribute at a high tax rate and withdraw at a low rate. Focus on your TFSA first if you’re early in your career.
If your employer matches RRSP contributions, that’s free money—sometimes 50-100% returns immediately. If they match up to 5% and you only contribute 3%, you’re leaving money on the table. Always contribute at least enough to get the full match.
When you withdraw from an RRSP (outside HBP or LLP), three things happen:
A $10,000 withdrawal could cost you $3,000+ in taxes, and you can never put that $10,000 back. This is why RRSPs are for long-term goals only.
Here’s a strategy many miss: you can contribute to your RRSP but delay claiming the deduction. Why? If you’re in a low bracket now but expect higher income soon (promotion, career change), contribute today but claim the deduction next year when it’s worth more. Your contribution room gets used, but you save the tax benefit for later.
Unlike the $2,000 buffer for honest mistakes, RRSP overcontributions are taxed at 1% per month on the excess. With your Notice of Assessment in hand, this should never happen—but it does, especially with employer contributions people forget to track.
This deserves its own section because it’s one of the most useful RRSP features for young Canadians.
If you’re a first-time homebuyer (defined as not owning a home in the last 4 years), you can withdraw up to $35,000 from your RRSP tax-free to use as a down payment. Your spouse can also withdraw $35,000, meaning a couple could access $70,000 combined.
The catch? You must repay 1/15th of the amount each year for 15 years. Miss a payment and the CRA adds that year’s minimum to your income.
Here’s a smart approach many use:
This works best if you’re already planning to buy within 1-2 years and would be contributing to an RRSP anyway.
Self-directed RRSP: You pick the investments (stocks, ETFs, bonds). Best for hands-on investors comfortable making decisions. Available through Questrade, Wealthsimple Trade, and most banks.
Managed RRSP: A robo-advisor or professional picks investments for you based on a questionnaire. Good for beginners. Check out Wealthsimple, Questwealth, or BMO SmartFolio.
Group RRSP: Through your employer. Often comes with matching contributions. Always participate if matching is offered.
Mutual fund RRSP: Through banks, usually higher fees. Not recommended unless you’re getting financial advice that justifies the cost.
Your RRSP isn’t an investment—it’s an account that holds investments. Inside your RRSP, you might have:
If you’re decades from retirement - some experts suggest higher equity allocations for younger investors, though the right mix depends on your comfort with risk.
Set up automatic monthly contributions. Even $200/month = $2,400/year, which could save you $500-800 in taxes while building your retirement fund. You’ll adjust to the reduced take-home pay within a month or two.
Focus on your TFSA first. Your tax bracket is relatively low, so the RRSP deduction isn’t as valuable. Exception: if your employer offers matching, contribute at least enough to get the full match.
This is the sweet spot where RRSPs start making sense. Consider splitting between TFSA and RRSP, or prioritize RRSP if you’re in the 30%+ marginal bracket. Max your TFSA first if you’re planning to buy a home soon.
High earners often prioritize RRSP contributions for the tax savings. You’re in a high enough bracket that the tax savings are substantial. If you max out your RRSP and TFSA, consider spousal RRSPs for income splitting or non-registered investment accounts.
You don’t earn RRSP contribution room until you file a Canadian tax return. Your first year in Canada, focus on opening a TFSA and building your credit. Starting in year two, you’ll begin accumulating RRSP room based on your Canadian income.
By December 31st of the year you turn 71, you must convert your RRSP into either:
RRIF (Registered Retirement Income Fund): The most common choice. You’re forced to withdraw a minimum percentage each year, which gets taxed as income.
Annuity: An insurance company pays you a fixed amount for life. Less common these days.
Lump sum withdrawal: You cash everything out and pay tax on the entire amount. Almost never a good idea unless the account is small.
Most people choose the RRIF option since it maintains tax-deferred growth while forcing you to gradually draw down the account.
If you have a workplace pension (defined benefit or defined contribution), it affects your RRSP contribution room. The pension adjustment (PA) reduces your available RRSP room because you’re already building retirement savings through your pension.
For example, if your pension contribution is deemed worth $8,000 by the CRA, that $8,000 reduces your RRSP limit. Check your T4 slip for your PA amount—it’s reported there annually.
Having both is ideal: maximize what your employer pension offers, then use RRSP room for additional savings.
Meet Sarah: 28 years old, earns $65,000, works in Toronto. She has $15,000 in TFSA (maxed), no debt, and $500/month extra to save.
Her strategy:
Result after 3 years:
She’s built a down payment while paying less out of pocket, thanks to the RRSP deduction.
If RRSPs make sense for your situation, there’s no reason to delay. Every year you wait is a year of potential tax savings lost. Even starting with $100/month builds momentum and establishes the habit.
Remember: personal finance is called “personal” for a reason. What works for your coworker or sister might not work for you. Consider your income, goals, timeline, and comfort with risk.
Ready to get started?
Low-fee investment platforms: Invest with Wealthsimple | Invest with Questrade
Still deciding between RRSP and TFSA? Read the TFSA guide
The best RRSP strategy is the one you’ll actually stick with. Start small, stay consistent, and adjust as your income grows. Your 65-year-old self is counting on the decisions you make today.
Disclaimer: This content is for educational purposes only and is not intended as financial, investment, or tax advice. Please consult a licensed financial advisor or tax professional for advice specific to your situation.
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